Liébana is one of those places that will make you swear you’ll return the moment you leave. Its historical capital, Potes, ranks high on every single list of Spain’s most picturesque towns, drawing crowds and busloads of tourists. But once you set foot in Liebana, you’ll quickly realize that Potes isn’t the only gem worth seeing and –unpopular opinion– it might not even be the best one.
Liebana is, without a doubt, one of our favorite places in Spain. It’s a breathtakingly scenic area wherever you look, with countless trails to hike, hidden nooks to explore, and viewpoints that’ll have you gazing at the horizon, and wondering how more people don’t know about this place.
Where is Liebana?
Liebana is the last inland region of Cantabria to the west, sitting right where the Picos de Europa rise like a giant, seemingly impenetrable rock wall – a natural border with Asturias.
The Deva River springs up there, flowing through Liébana before reaching the Cantabrian Sea 30 km (18 miles) away. The coast may seem close, but until 1867, when the first road to the sea was built, the towering peaks and the Hermida Gorge kept the region isolated. That’s why, despite its proximity to the coast, there’s not a single beachy vibe. Instead, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped into a mountain valley straight out of the Pyrenees.
Most Beautiful Towns in Liebana and Other Must-See Spots
This historical region is blessed with mountain scenery at every turn, and no, that’s not just a figure of speech. There are no industrial estates here, and not a single ugly village in sight. Instead, tiny stone-and-wood villages, adorned with flower-filled balconies, dot the slopes, and valleys at the end of every winding road.
The area is easy to navigate if you stick to the main road from Potes to Fuente De, but you’d be missing out on some great spots.
What I suggest is a journey through the most beautiful towns in Liebana, starting at La Hermida Gorge and ending at Fuente De, with a few detours along the way to discover some unexpected surprises. I won’t lie and say we’ll cover absolutely everything there is to see, but we’ll definitely hit the highlights.
Since you’re likely coming from the coast, we’ll go from north to south. I’ve added a map at the end of this post with all the spots mentioned, plus hotel and restaurant recommendations.
La Hermida Gorge
Stretching 21 kilometers and marking the boundary between Liebana and the coast, La Hermida is Spain’s longest gorge. Towering vertical rock walls rise up to 600 meters on either side of the narrow Deva River. It’s a narrow road, but in great condition, so take your time to savor the views.
Along the way, you’ll pass small villages with cozy accommodations, hiking trails, and via ferratas for the adventurous. This road is also a motorcyclist’s paradise, with stunning landscapes and thrilling twists and turns.
Santa Catalina Viewpoint
The Santa Catalina viewpoint is a must-stop for anyone wanting to take in the views of the Hermida Gorge. It’s so narrow that the best way to appreciate it is from above.
Crossing the river from the village of Piñeres, a narrow secondary road leads to a small parking lot right next to the viewpoint. There’s a larger parking area a bit further down, but it fills up quickly during peak season.
Bejes
Our first stop is the picturesque village of Bejes, one of our favorites in Liébana. The village itself is charming, with its uniform stone houses, but there’s no particular monument to speak of. The real monument here is the landscape. Nestled in a high valley surrounded by snow-covered mountains, Bejes’ beauty is complemented by an overwhelming sense of tranquility. Chances are, you’ll be the only tourist around.
Bejes is also known for its Picón cheese, which you can grab at a great price from the local dairies. This delicious (though decidedly pungent) treat is made in caves and will win over anyone who enjoys a good, strong cheese.
If you want to stay the night in Bejes, there’s a simple, yet clean and welcoming hostel. While it might not be a dream stay for the most demanding travelers, it offers a lovely laid-back mountain atmosphere. The hosts are attentive, and stories of past, and future adventures in the Picos de Europa are shared around a long communal dinner table.
🥾 There are plenty of hiking options from the village. The most popular is a 30 km (about 18.6 miles) circular hike to the Casetón de Andara mountain hut. Up there you’ll be rewarded with stunning views of the Picos de Europa. Don’t be fooled by the cliché of always-sunny and hot Spain, and make sure you’re well-informed about the weather conditions before setting off. For specific details, check out the photo below.
Balneario de la Hermida
The village of La Hermida is roughly halfway through the gorge and is home to a historic spa with medicinal mineral waters. These waters flow at over 60°C, and their benefits were already appreciated by the Romans. You can stay at the Hotel Balneario La Hermida, though it’s a bit overpriced in my opinion, or simply enjoy a thermal circuit.
Lebeña
As you drive into the valley and the gorge begins to open up, you’ll come across Lebeña. The town’s crown jewel is undoubtedly Santa María de Lebeña Church, an exquisite example of Mozarabic architecture. It was built in 925 by the Counts of Liébana—likely hailing from Seville. The church is open daily from 10 AM to 1:30 PM, and again from 4 PM to 7:30 PM. On Sundays, it’s only open in the morning.
💡What Does Mozarabe Mean?
You’ll see this weird word pop up frequently on informational panels throughout Spain, so here’s a quick explanation. Mozarabic, in simple terms, refers to a Christian person from Al Andalus, the Muslim kingdom that once ruled almost the entire Iberian Peninsula before Spain existed as a country. It also refers to the Christian art and architecture that developed during this period, which lasted nearly 800 years. The fusion of both traditions gave rise to some uniquely beautiful buildings, such as Santa María de Lebeña.
Sotama Visitor Center
Just a couple of kilometers down the road, you’ll find the Sotama Visitor Center for Picos de Europa National Park. The permanent exhibit offers a great introduction to the park’s natural beauty and rich biodiversity.
Park staff also provide useful information (in English, too) on hiking trails, viewpoints, picnic spots, and other services within the park. It’s open every day from 9 AM to 3 PM.
Cabezón de Liebana and Around
Just a 15-minute drive from Potes, Cabezón de Liébana and its surrounding villages are full of charming, postcard-perfect spots that look like they’ve been plucked from a rural Pinterest board. These tiny villages are rooted in traditional farming. Expect stone and wood houses, red-tiled roofs, quaint churches, barns, and a few cows and chickens casually roaming the streets.
Luriezo stands out for its well-preserved rural architecture and the massive 4th-century inscription stone embedded in the church’s porch. Finish your visit with a delicious meal and unbeatable views at one of Cahecho’s two panoramic restaurants. Both are marked on the map.
Peaceful and quiet, and with stunning views of the Picos de Europa, these villages are the perfect escape for anyone looking to unplug and recharge. Though the villages are small, you’ll find cozy bed and breakfasts, some of the valley’s best restaurants nearby, and the sweet sound of birdsong in the morning. What more could you want from a holiday?
Potes, the Heart of Liebana
Located at the junction of three rivers and where three valleys meet, the picturesque town of Potes serves as both the region’s geographical and administrative center, as well as a top destination for tourists. Its medieval old town is a photographer’s dream, with palaces, traditional houses, and stone bridges at every turn.
Not far from the town, you’ll find the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liebana. Unknown to many, it is home to one of Christianity’s most important relics, along with several charming chapels offering breathtaking views.
Potes is a popular base for travelers looking to explore Liébana, offering everything from bars and restaurants to hotels and supermarkets. In this guide, you’ll find all the must-see spots in Potes and beyond.
Villages South of Potes
Most tourists leaving Potes head straight for Fuente De, but I’d suggest taking a detour south along the N-621 to venture a bit off the beaten path.
Winding roads lead to remote mountain villages perched above the valley, offering some of the best views in Liebana. Tudes, Dobres, and Cucayo are well worth exploring, and you’ll also find charming B&Bs, like La Posada de Cucayo, where you can wake up to a sea of clouds rolling over the peaks. Consider staying at least one night—it’s an experience you won’t forget.
Camaleño
Roughly halfway between Potes and Fuente De, Camaleño sits in a picturesque valley dotted with vegetable gardens irrigated by the Deva River. Nearby, you’ll find the Romanesque Hermitage of San Pelayo, one of the oldest in Liébana.
Mogroviejo, the Most Beautiful Town in Liebana
Of all the towns in Liébana, tiny Mogroviejo is the most stunning. In my opinion, it’s undoubtedly one of the most beautiful towns in Northern Spain, and in the whole country, to be fair. The village boasts stone houses, a fortified tower, and breathtaking views of the Picos de Europa. Its charming streets are perfect for a stroll, and you’ll also find several hiking trails nearby if you want to further explore the surrounding landscape.
Don’t expect any tourist services, though. Mogroviejo remains a true hidden gem where people still live off the land, not from tourism. There are a couple of rural lodgings, but no shops or restaurants.
Fuente Dé Cable Car
This is probably the most popular thing to do in Liebana, drawing thousands of tourists every summer and hundreds of hikers year-round. The Fuente Dé cable car takes you up to 1,830 meters (6,004 feet) in just four minutes. This means spectacular views of the Picos de Europa with zero effort.
From there, you can explore various hiking trails, ranging from a few hours to over a week, depending on your time and stamina. You can also start hiking from the base, climbing steep ravines that are a real challenge for the bravest. However, most hikers take the cable car to skip the brutal first climb and begin their adventure with more energy.
For the best location, stay at the Parador de Fuente Dé—right next to the cable car, with mountain views and direct access to the trails.
Where to Stay in Liebana
Most people choose to stay in Potes, as it’s the most famous and offers the most services. If that’s the case for you, check out our recommended accommodations in Potes. However, nearly every village in Liébana boasts charming wooden and stone accommodations with breathtaking views, cozy rooms, a couple of fluffy cats, and a still authentic rural vibe.
This might sound like an exaggeration, but I can’t think of any other place—either in Spain or abroad—where there’s such a high concentration of places I’d love to stay at, at prices I can actually afford. Go ahead, pull up the Booking map, filter by reviews with a rating over 9, and see for yourself. Or simply check this list of places we’ve handpicked, either because we’ve already stayed at them, or because they’re on our bucket list:
Posada el Bosque
A stone and wood house with panoramic views, breakfasts overlooking the mountains, and a scenic pool for the summer months.
Posada San Pelayo
This rustic hotel in the Picos de Europa offers a pool with stunning views, spacious gardens, and cozy lounges with fireplaces and board games. Rooms are comfortable, some with balconies. Free parking, hiking guides, and great local tips make it perfect for explorers.
El Corcal de Liebana
A charming hotel featuring individually decorated rooms, a good restaurant, and a cozy lounge. Located just a short drive from Potes, it’s the perfect retreat for those seeking tranquility and stunning views, all without venturing into winding mountain roads.
Idyllic Country Stays to Scape the Crowds
For a truly peaceful countryside escape, surrounded by nature and beauty, here are four fantastic options that offer more or less the same perks: a renovated traditional house, spotless cleanliness, seclusion, unbeatable views, homemade food, and super friendly service.
Best Restaurants in Liebana
The culinary experience is a highlight of any journey in Northern Spain, and Liébana is no exception.
You can’t leave without trying cocido lebaniego, the region’s most iconic dish. This hearty stew, made with chickpeas, meat, and cabbage, is a must-try that will fuel you up for any adventure.
Expect to enjoy top-quality beef, thanks to the area’s cattle-farming traditions, along with game dishes like wild boar and roe deer. Fresh river fish, such as trout and local salmon, are also a big deal. And don’t forget about the exceptional local cheeses, butter, and desserts that will leave you wanting more.
Venta de Vieda
Delicious Lebaniego stew in generous portions, along with top-notch local meat. They bake their own bread in a wood-fired oven, and it’s pure heaven when paired with cheeses and walnuts. Be sure to book a table on the terrace—it’s an absolute treat.
The restaurant is located just a 6-minute drive from Potes or an hour’s walk if you’re up for a hike.
⭐ Our Top Choice – Taberna Mirador Peña Sagra
A 15-minute drive up a winding mountain road will lead you to this magical spot in the village of Cahecho, offering amazing views over the valley. The food is 100% traditional, of top quality, and offered at unbeatable prices, considering the location, the ingredients, and the particularly friendly service. Be sure to make a reservation during the high season.
Posada Casa Lamadrid
This one is also in Cahecho and offers similar views, along with great traditional food. The only reason we’re leaning toward recommending Taberna Mirador Peña Sagra is that we haven’t tried this one yet, but word is it’s just as good.
Los Molinos
A cozy, family-run restaurant on the road to Fuente De, just past Camaleño. This stone house offers a rustic, welcoming atmosphere with delicious food, including fabada, tasty lamb asado with homemade chips, and a fantastic cheesecake. Slightly pricier than others, but worth it for the experience.
Shopping for Local Goods in Liebana
Some of the top regional specialties from Liébana to take home are its exceptional dairy products, particularly the butter and cheeses, as well as its cured meats and local orujo liquor.
The region is home to numerous traditional dairy producers, some of which sell directly to the public. Visiting these small cheesemakers allows you to sample different varieties before choosing your favorite. However, keep in mind that some of them have raised their prices to the point where it feels like a bit of a tourist trap, so check prices carefully. You might actually find the same cheese at a better price in a supermarket in Potes. That said, you won’t get any explanations about the cheeses at the supermarket, nor will you have the chance to taste before you buy.
Here are a few places worth visiting (all marked on the map):
Quesería La Brañuca de Bejes
This traditional cheese factory produces the most iconic varieties of cheese from the Liébana region. The most popular is Queso Picón Bejes-Tresviso, a handcrafted blue cheese made with local milk.
Quesería Andara
A great place to visit, with friendly staff, detailed explanations, and a tasting of several cheese varieties. As far as we know, their prices are the same as what you’ll find in supermarkets.
Compañía Lebaniega de Vinos y Licores
This project was started by a group of friends who came together to share their love for the region, reviving some old vineyards that have now become a winery and distillery producing top-quality orujo and other liqueurs. The product tastings before purchase are generous.
Things to See and Do in Liebana | Map
Here’s a map with all the places to visit in Liébana from this post, along with a short description for each. It also includes the main spots from our guide to Potes, so you’ll have everything in one place. Click on the top-left corner to open a panel with more info on each location.
I hope this guide helps you make the most of the most beautiful towns in Liebana and everything this area has to offer. That said, fortune favors the brave, so I encourage curious explorers to go beyond this guide and venture into lesser-known villages to truly soak up the experience.